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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.